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Seamwork Adelaide Notes

August 13, 2016

Here she is so far!

adelaide-pinned

After that first muslin, I took some time away and let things percolate. I also took Sew the Perfect Fit on Craftsy. Overall, I think I’m starting to see what the fit issues I have actually are. I bet that’s the biggest hurdle for new sewers…things don’t fit right, but it’s hard to figure out what to change.

When I came back to the muslin, I decided I needed to move the shoulder seams, do an FBA, and do a broad back adjustment. The broad back adjustment was the best, and I’m realizing that I probably need it on the Sorbetto too. Not sure if this is a Colette patterns issue for me, or all patterns. It wouldn’t surprise me, since olympic lifting = muscles?

Anyway, I made all the edits except the broad back and sewed another muslin of the top part. Then I looked at my back measurements compared to the pattern and decided I needed to add .5″ to the back (so .25 to the actual pattern piece). I was pretty confident about that, so I went straight to the fabric and the photo above has the darts sewn, but the rest is just pinned together to double check the fit. It’s good!

I cannot wait to finish this one. Going to try to get it done by the 26th.

Changes I made:

  • Moved shoulder seams back 7/16.
  • moved bust dart up 1″
  • Did a .5″ FBA (for 1″ total)
  • broad back adjustment: added .25″ to back from armscye to waist or so (took cross-back measurements, factored in ease in pattern and compared).

Next up:

  • read through pocket tutorial (and w/french seams) and prep pockets
  • look up seam finishes (and here) for double gauze (zigzag? maybe french seams?)
  • make bias tape (out of the light gray lawn, or maybe test the double gauze)
  • consult aster tutorial for bias tape/placket
  • turning belt loops
  • learn button holes
  • button placement idea
  • prevent gaping with backwards button

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I'm a graphic designer, small business owner, occasional knitter, and reluctant sewist. This is my sewing notebook. Read more

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