Started on the Seamwork Adelaide. I feel like Colette’s measurements may run a bit small. My measurements put me exactly at a 12 for bust and hips, and 10 for waist, so I cut a 12 for the muslin thinking I could grade down in the waist if necessary. The bust is a bit small, maybe about an inch, and while the rest fits ok, I’m wondering if I could use a little more ease overall. Another possibility is I just can’t measure myself properly.
The biggest issues are that the bust is gaping, the shoulder seams are much too low in the front (between .5 and 1″), and the back from the waist up is a bit tight and pulling/bunching.
So what’s next? I think I’ll start by trying a size 14, at least down to the waist.
Other things to consider: I’m wondering if I’m a bit short waisted and need to resolve that in the back. Maybe the larger size will fix the shoulder seams, and I can work from there. I can also try an FBA on the bust, or tweak the back darts, or sew at a smaller seam allowance around the bust and upper back.
Things to investigate: