I am fully on board the linen pants train! My summer choices tend to be denim shorts or knit pencil skirts, but after making the Blanca Flight Suit in Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen, I decided I needed some linen pants and shorts. The Blanca was a new pant silhouette for me, and I’ve been reaching for them since the fabric is breezy and provides some mosquito protection (bugs love me).
The first pattern I tried was the Pietras from Closet Core. I made some shorts last year, and then never wore them. Mostly because, like everyone else, I barely left the house in 2020.
This year, I decided to give them another shot, and make the pants version. I got some more Brussels Washer linen from Stitch, which I love because it’s a rayon blend and doesn’t wrinkle as much as 100% linen. The pattern is fun to sew, and I sewed them up in a few hours.
I wore them immediately and…the fit was off. I had made a muslin for the shorts, AND the shorts, and they felt fine, so that was confusing. Wearing them for a full day was so helpful though. It was very clear the rise was much too long and the waist a little loose (elastic needed to be a bit shorter). While I was wearing them, I ended up folding the top over 2″ (the width of the elastic) and that felt perfect. I came home and took a critical look in the mirror, pulling the pants to where the crotch should actually sit, and yep. Very clear what is wrong here:
The only pants I’ve made are jeans, and the rise was perfect on those, so it didn’t even occur to me to tweak the rise. I usually think my torso is pretty average and it’s my legs that are short. The pattern is drafted for 5’6″ and I’m 5’3″, so I guess it’s not super shocking.
I ended taking apart the tops of both the pants and shorts, which involved seam ripping all the elastic, back waist, front facing, and side seams down to around the hips. I lowered the rise and then sewed them all back together. I put an invisible zip in the shorts and then decided to just sew the pattern as written for the pants.
It actually went a lot quicker than I anticipated! And now they fit great! I had a brief moment of panic when I washed and dried them and they felt tight, but this fabric loosens up quickly when wearing.
I added back pockets to the pants, and they’re very good. Highly recommend. Also highly recommend making a matching shirt for a weird faux jumpsuit look.