In advance of the class at Stitch next weekend, I cut out the pattern today.
Considering Kalle’s muslin, and the notes I had last time, I went ahead and cut out a 46 and tissue fit. It looked pretty good, but the shoulders seemed just a bit too low which also made the sleeves too long. I debated leaving it, or just raising the shoulders, but ultimately took a hard look at the D+D measurements (I’m a 44 in upper bust, but 46 in waist) and decided to cut down the shoulders/arms to a 44 and grade out to a 46.
This was a bit trickier than other patterns I’ve used so far, since there’s a princess seam, sleeves, and back yoke. In order to do this:
- I cut out a straight 44 for sleeves and cuffs
- On the front side and front center I cut a 44 in shoulders and arm holes, then right under the arms I graded out to a 46.
- On the back yoke I cut a straight 44, and on the back bottom I graded out to a 46 right under the armholes.
I tissue fit again and everything fit back together right, the shoulders were in a great place, and the sleeve length looked good. Yay!