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Deer & Doe Lupin Jacket Notes

September 5, 2016

In advance of the class at Stitch next weekend, I cut out the pattern today.

Considering Kalle’s muslin, and the notes I had last time, I went ahead and cut out a 46 and tissue fit. It looked pretty good, but the shoulders seemed just a bit too low which also made the sleeves too long. I debated leaving it, or just raising the shoulders,  but ultimately took a hard look at the D+D measurements (I’m a 44 in upper bust, but 46 in waist) and decided to cut down the shoulders/arms to a 44 and grade out to a 46.

This was a bit trickier than other patterns I’ve used so far, since there’s a princess seam, sleeves, and back yoke. In order to do this:

  • I cut out a straight 44 for sleeves and cuffs
  • On the front side and front center I cut a 44 in shoulders and arm holes, then right under the arms I graded out to a 46.
  • On the back yoke I cut a straight 44, and on the back bottom I graded out to a 46 right under the armholes.

I tissue fit again and everything fit back together right, the shoulders were in a great place, and the sleeve length looked good. Yay!

 

Filed Under: process Tagged With: deeranddoe

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I'm a graphic designer, small business owner, occasional knitter, and reluctant sewist. This is my sewing notebook. Read more

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